What is a clothing pattern block?
What is a clothing pattern block?
TAAS DIGITAL
November 7, 2019/Updated March 23, 2022
Block Patterns
The block pattern is the sewing pattern previously created for the clothing style that has been perfected for a good fit. The block pattern is commonly used to efficiently build a new clothing style with minimal need for pattern revisions and corrections.
This blog will offer some basic definitions of block pattern engineering for clothing. After that, it is up to you to call your best-selling design however you choose.
The overall apparel industry supply chain and how clothing is manufactured are rapidly changing. It takes creativity, genuine engineering, and thinking outside of "norms" to make it happen. Likewise, how we create anything is evolving, especially with the addition of 3D CAD technology.
Basic Pattern Production Terminology
The first Pattern is the pattern developed for each design by any pattern drafting technique. The first pattern is drafted using marking paper. The pattern will require many adjustments and fittings to produce a well-fitted pattern ready for clothing production. Unless the clothing style is asymmetrical, the first pattern will be developed as a half pattern. Eventually, the pattern can be developed into a block pattern.
A production pattern is a pattern set (for one clothing style) that includes all the pieces necessary to cut and produce a particular garment. At the end of the development and fit process, the production clothing pattern is perfected for the base size fit and styling and is ready to be graded for bulk production.
Grading means that the perfected production pattern is proportionally increased and decreased according to the grade rule assigned to the size range in the tech pack.
A pattern marker is a long piece of paper containing all pattern pieces for all sizes. The marker maker efficiently lays out all pattern pieces to ensure the best fabric use with minimal fabric waste. For the best and most efficient yields, most markers are done by sophisticated software.
Pattern pieces are mixed and aligned on the marker paper with the grainline parallel to the fabric's selvage. Therefore, it is critical to check the accuracy of the grainline on the production pattern before creating the marker. An incorrect grainline could waste the entire production run.
The marker is placed on the top of layers of fabric and is ready to be cut. Therefore, it is vital to know the fabric width when sending the production pattern to the marker maker.
Pattern making and blocks
Some other thoughts when looking at the pattern drafting:
The faulty grainline on the production pattern will transfer to the marker and cause costly garment production mistakes.
The block pattern is the pattern previously created for the clothing style that has been approved and corrected for a good fit. The pattern is the "blueprint" of the garment, already proven for a good fit and well received by the customer. The nested (graded) pattern can be used as a block pattern for future style creations. Block patterns may contain seam allowances previously used in production, specific fabric information, and shrinkage information (if applicable). It is important to understand that the pattern (proven for fit in styling) for knit fabric will not work for fit in the woven fabric. Woven fabrics have different structures and stretch properties. All pattern blocks should be classified and pattern pieces labeled clearly to avoid confusion and mix-up.
If the pattern for a specific style is doing well for the brand, the best approach would be to save the pattern as a master block pattern for that particular style (including cutter's must) without seam allowances or shrinkage. This pattern will be a valuable base for generating a new cutting pattern for the unique clothing style that might require different seam allowances, style lines, or shrinkage input (depending on the chosen fabric for the latest style).
However, start-up brands need to have market-proven pattern blocks and will have to establish the pattern for each garment from scratch. Their customers' fit and styling feedback will determine if the cutting pattern is good to keep as a block and reuse to create new styles.
It is wise to hire an industry-experienced pattern maker with extensive knowledge of fit and sizing to create, correct, and maintain patterns for commercial manufacturing.
What is a sloper?
The sloper terminology is often mistakenly used in place of a block. Sloper is a generic pattern draft based on particular body measurements. The pattern could be the basic bodice, skirt, or pants without seam allowances, ease, or fabric shrinkage included. Sloper creation is a common practice in the educational environment and presents an essential first step when engineering any garment. It is a great stepping stone to learning more about all the steps that need to be taken to transform the garment sketch idea into actual clothing that fits the human body.
In the professional environment, factories usually have their own standard blocks for various garment categories. The block pattern for the base size small for the junior market differs from the block pattern in size small for the missy market.
Learning and understanding pattern engineering as the foundation for well-fitted garment manufacturing is important, as it will shape your clothing line's brand recognition and overall success.
Learn more about clothing size charts, tech packs, specs, and points of measure for a better understanding of apparel sampling and manufacturing.
Connect with us to learn more about fashion technology, 3D fit and sizing, and digital pattern-making.
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