Digital Pattern Making Service Pricing
Digital Patterns Service for Fashion
August 2, 2019
Why 3D Digital Pattern Making?
3D digital pattern-making significantly advances the world of pattern engineering and clothing prototyping. The transition from 2D to 3D technology accelerates the process while enhancing precision. However, this doesn’t imply that patterns are created instantly without expertise or effort. Technology is a powerful tool that expedites design, pattern-making, and clothing production. Yet the skilled pattern maker, armed with extensive knowledge and experience of the clothing manufacturing process and production-ready patterns, indeed commands this tool.
What should I know when requesting digital pattern-making and 3D fit pricing?
When requesting pricing, it’s crucial not to base your inquiry solely on a sketch or physical sample you own or buy at the retail store. This approach is unlikely to be taken seriously, leading to wasted time and resources. Instead, be prepared to approach the factory with the following information:
A tech pack with front and back sketches, detailed points of measure (POMs) for the finished garment, and a construction page specifying seams and stitching.
A style number and specified base size for each garment (e.g., sample size M or size 6).
Specified size range in alpha or numeric size specifications (e.g., XS-XL or 0-18).
Detailed fabric information, including content, weight, width, shrinkage (if any), and swatches. Include contrast fabric, lining, and interfacing.
Details about trimmings or closures (buttons, zippers, hook and eye, cords, eyelets), including exact quantities or lengths.
Fabric swatch, usually 10 inches x 10 inches. This information is essential for 3D fit. Accurate digital fit depends on correct digital fabric calibration. If fabric information is missing, digital pattern simulation will be a pretty picture with the erroneous fit assessment.
Body measurements for creating the digital fit model (avatar). You can purchase ASTM standard body measurements for your target audience or use digital options like Alvanon Alvaform (3D dress form).
Submitting Information to the Manufacturer for an Accurate Price Estimate
When submitting information to the factory, precision is critical. Any ambiguity can lead to costly production errors. A good factory will guide you through unknown manufacturing details. Listen carefully and absorb all information to gain a solid understanding of the clothing manufacturing process.
Typically, factories request:
1. One garment sample with the correct construction and fabric.
The sample is called a PP, or pre-production sample (the final approved sample from your clothing development phase). It will be the best visual guide for all details, trims, stitching, and construction methods. The factory will give you the price based on the sample you submitted. The cost will change if you change anything (even if you perceive it as a minute detail).
2. Digital pattern(s) in DXF format with a ruler-matching file for grading.
Some factories work with Gerber/Accumark and use AAMA/ASTM or Optitex and PDS formatting. Most factories will accept digital files in the DXF format with a ruler. This means that the pattern was graded and saved as a DXF file.
The majority of pattern-making programs can open the DXF format. However, the original file must be exported carefully and adequately into the DXF format. Otherwise, some vital pattern information might be lost in “translation.” I have seen many DXF files not saved correctly, such as notches, markings, and sometimes entire pattern pieces missing, causing significant issues and delays during production.
3. “Cutter’s Must” should accompany the pattern. The document is an “inventory” of all pattern pieces related to the garment. Good “cutters must” or pattern cards include seam allowances, finishes, and trim information.
This document is often neglected, although it is an essential part of the pattern documentation. The one-page record will assure pattern piece cutting accuracy.
4. Tech Pack
The pack format varies wildly within the industry. Occasionally, you will see a one-page (not recommended) document containing only graded specifications. The other will use a more comprehensive multi-page document with detailed notes related to the garment (highly recommended).
The tech pack should have all the information needed to manufacture your garment correctly. It is the document that fully and professionally supports your design. It is common practice for a brand to have ongoing consultation with its pattern maker, grader, and technical designer to maintain its accuracy. It includes:
-Detailed flat sketch created, preferably, in Adobe Illustrator (front and back).
-Construction page showing all garment details (e.g., hem type, stitching type, button placements, distances from the seam or edge as a reference point, pocket placements, and other styling information). Photos and close-up details will be helpful to the factory. Detailed descriptions and visuals within the tech pack will prevent errors in bulk production.
-Spec Page document showing all final measurements for the finished product (such as bust circumference, waist circumference, zipper length, sleeve length, and front and back lengths). This includes all points of measure (POM-s) with the garment’s base size specs. The specs present the finished garment measurements per POM and will be the most critical document to ensure quality control checks for the correct fit.
-Size Range Page: The factory must know which sizes your company intends to produce (e.g., 00–24 or XXS–XXL). This will also act as a specification sheet detailing the measurements for all sizes. The size range should also show the base size you are working from.
-Raw Materials (BOM) Page: This page includes a detailed list of all materials and trims needed for the garment you plan to manufacture. It should include the color, fabric description with content, weight, and width, all trims with listed quantities, and supplier information. You must include the fabric treatment, packaging, and shipment method information.
-Labeling Information: the factory will need to know details about label placements. This information can be provided via drawings or photos. You must describe the required labels and their exact placement on the garment. (main brand label, hangtag (if applicable), Care/Content, and Country of origin). You will most likely need to provide all labels and hangtags to the factory.
5. Production plan and timeline schedule
You will need to give a timeline for the factory. They have their production schedule for other clients, and you must let the factory know when you need your product done and shipped. Always add a “time buffer” for unforeseen production obstacles.
The last-minute submission of all information and unclear communication with the factory, combined with high expectations, will cause late shipments or QC (quality control) errors.
A few domestic “on-demand” manufacturers will likely ask for additional information about your sales projections and seasonality so they can plan accordingly. They might ask for your preferred order of sewing operations (a list of sewing steps to complete the garment). Most factories already have a production floor plan and well-established order of sewing operations for specific garments they specialize in producing.
Reach out to us to delve deeper into the world of clothing manufacturing and the implementation of 3D technology in clothing development and production. We’re here to guide you through the intricate details of the industry and help you navigate the path to success in your fashion endeavors.
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