FABRIC WEIGHTS AND CONVERSIONS FOR CLOTHING

April 5, 2023

Fabric choices are part of the clothing design process. Knowing the fabric weight is essential to matching suitable materials for the intended garment design. However, not all fabrics are equal in results when draped on the body (both physical and digital).

Here we will talk about the most common use of measurement units for fabric weights, conversions between measurement units, and fabric classification related to weight and end-use for clothing sampling and manufacturing.

The fabric weight information importance

The fabric weight is closely correlated to its intended design application.

The fabric type and weight will define the drape of the garment. Lighter fabric weights will create more "flowy" designs and a light, breezy look and feel suitable for summer clothing.

Heavier fabrics are suitable for more structured garments, such as jackets and outerwear or garments designed for the fall and winter seasons.

The final look of commercial manufacturing of the styles designed and sold to consumers for the season will depend on the construction and thickness of the fabric. Thickness is closely correlated to the weight of the fabric but not necessarily to its opacity. In some cases, the fabric can be heavy but still transparent.

Fabric weight descriptions, when combined with other fabric content details like yarn type and construction methods, provide important insights for evaluating the final utility of a garment.

Here is an example of the simple fabric content and weight description:

Jersey knit, polyester/spandex, 96/4 (96% polyester, 4% spandex)

The Fabric Weight Classification

When you search for the fabric, you will notice that the description usually includes basic information about the fabric, such as content and weight. The weight of the fabric supplied by mills is generally described in two commonly used descriptions for both knit and woven materials:

GSM (g/m2) grams per square meter
OZ/yd2-ounces per square yard

Here is an introductory guide for fabric classification by weight:

and general guide for fabric weights and related fabrics

Fabric Finish Description
Additional information often included along with the fabric content, and weight is the type of fabric finish. The fabric finishes improve and amplify fabric performance and aesthetic quality. The fabric finishes include dying, printing, washing, and specific performance treatments.

Dying and printing are fabric finishes to enhance the visual look of the fabric. Dying refers to the color applied to the material in fabric mills. In addition, various printing techniques are used for the fabric's face side.

Washing can be done to bulk fabrics or to a garment to change fabric color and hand feel. For example, denim garments are washed and distressed to give them a peculiar denim color or worn-out look. Another example of a wash is enzyme wash, which provides a fabric with a soft hand feel.

Performance treatments can be found in athletic apparel. The most common treatments are moisture-wicking, anti-microbial, fast-drying, water-repellant, UV protection, and many others.

Fabrics descriptions by end-use

If you do not have any technical knowledge of the fabric, you can describe the material you need for your clothing line by the end use. There are more reliable ways of finding and sourcing the fabric you need. However, getting some swatches and obtaining starter fabric information is an excellent start.

Here is a reference to weight classification to clothing end-use correlation.

Our blog Wovens and Knits Fabrics, talks in detail about the different fabric construction and their end-use. Learning more about fabrics and their drape properties will help you select suitable fabrics for your clothing line as well as 3d fabric for digital clothing creation. Knowing what fabric to choose for apparel sample development and commercial clothing manufacturing will potentially prevent disappointment when transitioning from a fashion flat sketch to creating a well-fitted physical garment.